With necklaces and bracelets alike, one important finding is the clasp. Like the jump rings and ear wires we discussed in the last blog post, clasps can be found in many different shapes, metals, and styles, here are just a few examples.
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The class by use depends largely on the style of the necklace or chain I am using. Toggle clasps and hook and loop clasps are best suited for heavier pieces. The traditional lobster clasp is perfect for chains of a lightweight to medium weight. A magnetic clasp can be nice for people that have dexterity issues, however you wanna make sure the necklace is not going to be too heavy for the magnet. And all of these classes there are so many variations in style, size, weight and material.
Bails
Bails are the connectors on a pendant which allows the pendant to hang from a chain, beaded rope or other type of necklace. Sometimes the bail is attached directly to the piece, and sometimes the bail is used in conjunction with a jump ring. There are bails you solder directly on the piece, pinch bails, glue on bails, tube bails and others.
There are also bails used on the back of the piece. These are most often fabricated by the jeweler and can't be seen from the front like this one I made for an Amethyst pendant.
Miscellaneous
There are a variety of other findings depending on the style and techniques used to produce your piece.
If youre making beaded necklaces or bracelets you'll probably need some crimp tubes. Thread or fine beading wire is threaded through and crimped to trap the thread/wire so a jump ring or clasp can be attached. Using a wire guard will keep your thread/wire form becoming frayed with use. I used them on all of my beaded necklaces.
Bead caps can be very handy for separating beads either to keep them from rubbing on one another or for a design aspect. On this beaded necklace you can see the beads caps indicated by the yellow arrow; the crimp tubes indicated by the black arrows; and one example of a simple toggle clasp in blue.
That's a quick dip into findings. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Keep in mind that comments are moderated so as to minimize spam and offensive ads.
]]>It would be an extremely lengthy discussion to cover all findings that are available. For instance, in jump rings alone there are round, oval, square, triangular and just about any other shape you can imagine. They can be made of sterling silver, argentium, brass, copper, niobium, titanium, or gold. They can also be gold filled or silver filled, and of course they can virtually any size.
Let's dip our toes into the shallow end and talk about the earring findings at Divella Designs jewelry and what they are used for.
Jump Rings
The jump rings I use are sterling silver, 14 karat gold filled, copper or niobium. The oval jump rings I purchase, the round jump rings I make myself using different gauges of wire in the above metals. Jump rings are used to join two components together in lieu of soldering. They are very helpful when you want to maintain movement. Depending on the material and the piece, they can be soldered closed or open and twisted together to form a close and tight fit.
Ear Wires
Ear wires are pretty straightforward, they aer the part thet goes into the ear. As with jump rings, they can be made of many materials. I use only sterling silver, 14k gold filled, niobium or titanium. Niobium and Titanium are both hypoallergenic so I use them in some of my enamel and copper earrings. Some of my ear wires I make myself and some I purchase already made.
Post Earrings Findings
Post earrings are made with 2 pieces, the post itself and the clutch or ear nut. The post is soldered onto the earrings which go through the ears and the clutch is out in behind the ear to hold it on. I use only sterling silver.
Head Pins
On occasion I will use head pins or wire to add a little dangle or some small adornment to a piece. In the example below I wanted to add some small gemstone beads to the earrings.
In the next blog we'll talk about the findings commonly used in pendants and necklaces, including chains.
]]>White Buffalo Kingman Composite
The composite is made by the same family that mines the Kingman turquoise. They mix the White Buffalo with some blue Kingman turquoise, add the bronze matrix and then compress it into bricks as seen below. Each brick is approximately 4.75” x 2.5” x 2.25”
The White Buffalo stone is not turquoise even though sometimes you will see it misrepresented as such. It is actually a stone made of dolomite and calcite.
Purple Mohave Turquoise composite is a composite made up of Blue Kingman turquoise, Purple Mohave Turquoise and bronze.
The only source for true Purple Mojave Turquoise is the Kingman Mine in Arizona. This type of turquoise starts out as blue Kingman turquoise, is dyed purple and then goes through a bronze fusion process that creates a bronze color to the matrix. It is then formed, polished and cut. The Kingman Turquoise Mine is the only mine authorized to process the turquoise this way. =Sadly, there are a lot of imitation stones floating around out there and is one reason I buy my stones only from trusted lapidaries here in the US. Jeff Hansen from Stone Shapers Designs is one such lapidary. Jeff is a man of integrity as well as an expert stonecutter/lapidary.
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While many enamelists use both leaded and unleaded vitreous enamels, I use only unleaded. There are some advantages in leaded enamels as they can have more vibrant colors; but for me the risks outweigh those benefits. The enamels I use are Thompson unleaded enamels in both opaque and transparent. Made in the USA, I can be sure they contain no lead and will be much safer to work with. Leaded enamels have not been produced in the US since about 1990 due to health concerns although they can be acquired from Japan & France.
As far as the metal goes, I purchase all my metals from Rio Grande Jewelry Making Supply located in New Mexico. The copper I use in my enamels is CDA #110 copper; which is 99.9% pure. I never use plated materials in my enamel work…never. In general I use no plated materials at all and on the rare occasion I have, I’ve stated it clearly in the description.
The ear wires I use are sterling silver, 14k gold filled or niobium. Niobium is hypoallergenic and used to manufacture pacemakers and other medical devices.
]]>I don't like the whole white background look. It's boring and it looks like the jewelry is floating in mid air. I can't hire a model so that's out. What I did discover it that I very much like the look or torn paper. Weird, huh? It must be something left over from my childhood 😃.
So now we have nature, my fave color (and one of my brand colors) and torn paper. If you've ever taken a piece of wet watercolor paper and torn it you know it leaves a deckled edge; that's what I'm talking about. After several hours of searching I found handmade heavyweight paper with a deckled edge in the perfect color.
I've ordered it from a place called Fringe+Rose and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. The papers and some little organic bits with the jewelry is how I see it, and I have some design ideas, but for now you'll have to wait and see!
]]>I’ve been using my dining room to try to get good photos of my jewelry and have come up with a variety of problems with lighting, reflections, hot spots and shadows.
We finally decided to turn it into somewhat of a real studio for pictures. After having reflections of the yellowish walls (painted by the previous owner )in the silver pieces, I finally decided to give the walls a refresh, take up the carpet and make the room more conducive to getting good shots.
I’ll be testing that theory out this next week and I’ll let you know how it goes.
In addition to changing up the studio, I’ve started courses at Karl Taylor Education and I can’t tell you how much it has helped. If you’re struggling with photography in any form, check it out!
He’s an amazing photographer with 3 decades of experience and his teaching is the best I’ve seen, and I’ve seen a lot! He covers product photography, as well as portraits, fashion and even filmmaking. He explores lighting and post production in depth; has live workshops and weekly challenges. Feel free to ask questions and Karl will answer them within a day or two at the most from my experience.
See you later in the week!
]]>As you can see here, my studio is quite full of work tables, benches and shelves leaving me little room for pictures and having to move things around just to snap one.
I finally agreed with David and the dining room furniture went to the basement and I began replacing it with a set-up appropriate for a small photo studio. I probably should take up the rug as well, but there's nowhere else in the house it would go so for now it'll stay put.
With some random tables and shelves from elsewhere in the house, a bit of DIY and my camera tethered to my computer I now have space for some better lighting. Hopefully, this will give you a better feel for the jewelry and kick up my website a notch, we'll see.
I know it needs a little more work, but at least I can move now without knocking anything off!
]]>Vitreous glass is smooth, hard, chemically resistant, durable, scratch resistant, has long-lasting color fastness, and is easy to clean. Enamel is glass, not paint, so it does not fade under ultraviolet light.
To make vitreous enamels, the raw materials of silica sand, feldspar, borax, soda ash, and sodium fluoride are combined in a crucible. They are then melted in a furnace between 2192°F and 2462°F until all of the raw materials have liquified and mixed together. The glass is referred to as frit at this stage.
The mixture is then poured onto a steel slab to cool then quenched in cool water. It is then ground idownr using a ball mill. To add color to the enamel metal a variety of metal oxides are added. The enamel is referred to as frit at this stage. The frit is then ground to the appropriate mesh size for sifting.
Vitreous enameling is a process whereby this finely ground glass is fused to metal using high heat, the temperatures ranging from 1250°F to 1450°F. While some enamels contain lead for more brilliant colors, I choose to use only unleaded enamels in my work due to the health hazards.
Enamel powders can be mixed, but not in the same way that paints are. For instance, when blue and red enamel powder is used, the result is not purple, but rather individual grains of blue and red enamel. The exception is a specially formulated liquid enamel which can be mixed much like watercolor. Don’t confuse this with enamel paint, the enamel still has to be fired at the above temps for fusion to take place.
The process of making enameled jewelry:
My experience has been a much more even distribution of the enamel as it flows when fired in the kiln. A torch can certainly be used and is a much more economical technique as kilns can be quite expensive. Great care needs to be taken not to over fire the piece.
]]>Last night I made some pumpkin bread encrusted with chopped pecans and I have to say, it's a favorite of mine. Served warm with a little cream cheese and a light drizzle of local honey and you have a great dessert. I prefer mine plain as pictured here, for me it's sweet enough already.
What are some of your fall faves?
]]>With 24/7 cable news, the faster than light speed with which we try to accomplish everything; and the hectic work/life imbalance, it’s no wonder we’re feeling a bit overwhelmed most of the time. I’ve got good news though!
A team of researchers from Griffith University published a paper in late 2019 that attempted to find the ‘economic value of protected areas’ of nature for our mental health. Their conclusion was that national parks and reserves save about 6 trillion dollars globally in mental health treatment every year. They considered factors like frequency of green-space visits, socioeconomic status and subsequent quality of life. The findings were that green spaces, or natural landscapes, are hugely beneficial for everyone’s well-being (not to mention wallets), despite the fact that we don’t quite know the scientific reason behind nature’s healing powers.
The calming effects of nature on our minds, seems to be a universal & instinctive reaction.
A Path To Healing
While working at a VA hospital back in 2005 I broke into sobs at work, and I had no idea why. Recently my brother had died, my mother had passed after several years of illness; and I was scheduled for a major surgery with an uncertain outcome in a week’s time; but I had “dealt” with all that. On an intellectual level that was true.
My boss asked me what was wrong and I honestly replied “I don’t know, nothing I guess.” She took me down to mental health and when he asked me what was going on in my life, I stated “Nothing really.” My boss began running down the recent and upcoming events. The doctor looked at me and gave me the following prescription; “Go home and play in the dirt, and don’t come back until after you a get release after the surgery.” Wait, what?! That’s going to be at least a month! Working takes my mind off things, I just needed to work, give me more work! Now officially on medical leave, I went home as ordered, and I was pissed!
I lived in the woods about a 1/2 mile down a dirt road and had a huge vegetable garden. As I was sitting on the ground one day weeding, it hit me; I needed to get grounded, literally! I hadn’t really “dealt with” anything; I had only shoved it all back into a corner somewhere. I looked around at my surroundings; the trees, flowers, the fruits and veggies; I listened to the bees buzz, the birds sing and other critters scamper. I laid down in the dirt, right there in the middle of the garden, and I cried…a lot. Day after day until the surgery I went into the garden to weed, yes; but also to think, to daydream, to cry, and most importantly, to heal.
After the surgery, which went very well, I was limited on head movement so I would just sit in a chair outside in the woods for hours; watching, listening.
Nature had become my therapist.
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Turquoise Cabochons by cutting Edge Turquoise
Wildhorse Cabochon by Turquoise Obsessions
For these reasons sometimes a pair of earrings won't match exactly, or I have to say no to repeating a piece exactly in every detail. The jewelry I create is meant for folks like me who care about the issues above; who want to support an artisan; who appreciate the artistic value of a piece; and who want something truly & authentically unique.
Another benefit is that when you purchase a piece of jewelry from me you are supporting more than one small business. Whether it’s a gemstone piece or an enameled piece, the parts that go into the whole have been purchased from a small business right here in the U.S.
Favorite Lapidaries:
]]>Prior to 1890, when the King family rediscovered mine, it was known as the Lick Skillet Mine (love that name). The Manassa turquoise mine produces an incredibly wide range of colors, from deep emerald greens to brilliant sky-blue.This photo shows the turquoises as it is mined, and before the lapidary begins cutting and polishing.
This lot was purchased from lapidary Greg Cordova. He is a 2nd generation lapidary with over 15 years of cutting experience, and is one of the owners of King's Manassa Turquoise Mine. He also owns two claims of the White Buffalo Mine in Nevada.
Greg is also the lapidary who cut this beautiful Wild Horse stone (3rd photo) I purchased recently. I’ll be using it to design a piece for a donation to an equine sanctuary for a fundraiser they’re having later in the year.
Turquoise is a semi-soft stone so the lapidary will back the stone prior to grinding to minimize breakage. After the backing has cured, the stones are placed on dopping sticks to prepare for grinding, shaping and polishing. After setting the backing continues to protect the stone for the wearer by absorbing shock.
John Hartman from Durango Silver has a pretty detailed video on the entire cutting, backing, polishing procedure if you’d like to know more.
I'm very excited as this is the first time I've ever purchased more than a few stones at a time. I've got my work cut out for me!
]]>Lichen comes in a variety of stunning colors. We’re probably most familiar with the light yellow & green shades, but there are many more. The most stunning are bright yellow, red, orange, magenta, blue-green and blue-gray and they’re all even more brilliant when wet.
Lichens are living organisms composed of a fungus and algae living in a symbiotic relationship. You don’t have to worry that lichen is killing your trees. Even though lichen is often found on dead or decaying trees, they pose no threat at all to the trees in which they grow. The fungus grows on the tree and can collect moisture, which the algae needs. The algae, in return, can create food from the energy of the sun, which feeds the fungus. Lichen on tree bark is completely harmless to the tree itself.
There are about 15,000 different varieties worldwide and they’ve been used by people for food, medicines and dyes.
Did you know that lichens are an indication of good air quality? “Lichens love clean air. In fact, their sensitivity to air pollution means they make great air quality indicators. Like small signposts, these curious organisms can tell us a lot about the air we are breathing.” NHM
Check out my Lichen Earrings! what do you think?
]]>In my mind the gift box added an extra layer of protection for the jewelry. I used sheets of tissue paper and folded everything inside. It made it handy of you wanted to gift your item. It is true that the extra box adds nearly an ounce to the package which in turn raises your shipping cost. That all got me thinking.
I did some poking around and found that if I use shredded tissue paper (still compostable) it offered plenty of padding in the box so even if the shipper was rough with the package (and we’ve all seen those videos), the jewelry would be safe.
I was still worried though, for the folks buying gifts as they might still like the box. I’ll still offer the gift box, but at my cost. There is no charge for the pouch in either case.
Just so you know, the boxes will soon be a color they call ‘white sand’. I didn’t like the brown when I rebranded and white was a just a little too blah for me.
Fun Fact: The tissue paper I use is compostable. in fact, it can be really good for your compost. It will absorb any excess water in your heap and keep it from producing odors.
After you’ve removed your jewelry and the other goodies, just dump out the contents of the box in your compost then toss the box in your recycle bin.
]]>Don’t use things like vinegar, salt, baking soda, or toothpaste as they are all abrasives.
Don’t use things like Tarn-X on your jewelry to remove tarnish.
Don’t scrub or otherwise use friction on plated metals. Plated jewelry has an ultra thin coat of gold or silver just on the surface and it’s very easy to scratch it. Once that happens, the surface metal will begin to peel.
Don’t ever clean your pearls with anything other than a soft cloth and do so very carefully with light pressure. You can sue a mild dish soap in warm water, but don’t submerge your bracelet or necklace as it can weaken the silk threads pearls are traditionally strung with. I suggest taking your pearls to a jeweler for proper cleaning.
Don’t wash jewelry cleaning cloths. Most are impregnated with a very gentle abrasive.
Do use Sunshine® polishing cloths which are safe for nearly all jewelry. It’s great for cleaning tarnish from silver, copper, brass and gives a high sine to gold as well. It’s even safe for turquoise and opal jewelry. Use light to medium pressure. It is also safe for gold-filled.
Do be very gentle regardless of the materials in your jewelry.
Do be sure to allow all jewelry to dry thoroughly before putting it away. I pat dry with a soft cloth & leave it out overnight.
Metals, Diamonds, Rubies, Sapphires:
The safest and best way to clean this jewelry at home is just using a mild dish soap, warm water (not hot) and a new baby toothbrush. Mix a couple of drops the dish soap and warm water in a dish and drop the jewelry in. Allow to sit for a few minutes, then using the new toothbrush dipped into the soapy water gently scrub your jewelry, rinse very well, and pat dry.
The reason for the new toothbrush is that an old toothbrush can still have some toothpaste residue which can easily scratch soft stones and even soft metals.
Enamel & Niobium
These are the easiest to care for. Niobium doesn’t tarnish and is a hypoallergenic metal used in pacemakers and other medical devices. I use unleaded vitreous enamel that is sifted onto copper sheet and fired at 1450°f.
]]>I had a gallery of local art at the time and was doing a charity event. Seeing the post online she reached out to me asking if she could donate a piece. You read that right; she reached out to me. She is a kind, generous and amazing soul as well as an astounding artist who creates jaw-dropping jewelry.
Javits did an interview with her during her first appearance at the New York JA show in 2016. Here's a little snippet:
"Many times, I don’t have an exact design in mind and will start playing with the metal until a design unveils itself to me.... I get immense pleasure by experimenting with patina formulas and taking traditional metalwork techniques and tweaking them to find a new and exciting way to create!"
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Not everyone decorates for the holidays in red and green. In fact, last year I had some really great custom requests.
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It may seem odd, but I don’t wear much jewelry. I spend most of my days in jeans and a sweatshirt in the studio with a variety of tools. I pin back my hair, don my apron, put on my Optivisor or welding glasses, so jewelry would be complicated and a hazard. I always have my wedding ring on and my memorial necklace which I wear tucked in when in the studio. That’s pretty much all I wear most days. I do have a couple of favorites when I go out.
I’m a bit of a nature lover and living in Vermont the trees are so inspiring so the leaf print earrings are definitely one of my favorite pairs. I use an actual leaf to create those so each one is a little different. I have a pair in silver, copper and brass so I have a pair that will go with any outfit. When I saw how beautifully subtle they were I started collecting other types of leaves to work with. It didn’t stop there either! Bark, moss, lichen, flower petals; they all make such beautiful patterns that I can use in texturing the metals.
I love my leaf prints, but here are times when I want more color so I turn to the lichen pieces. The pieces in the Lichen collection are made with 6 layers of enamel, each fired in the kiln at 1450°f. Each layer presents itself as solid color, but in the last long firing the layers carry on some unknown fluid dance commingling with one another to create an extraordinary & truly unique gift.
I’d love to know if you have a favorite here at Divella Designs!
]]>The Unboxing Experience: As you open the box you are greeted by the soothing scent of the organic lavender sachet before you even peel back the carefully pleated ivory tissue paper. Once inside you’ll find a jewelry box tied with a pale pink ribbon, a care card that explains how to care for your new jewelry, a business card and few little treats. When you open up the jewelry box you’ll find your treasures in a luxurious microfiber pouch that looks and feels like an ultra-soft suede. The pouch has a divider where you’ll find a small polishing cloth if you’ve ordered silver, copper, or brass . These pouches make it easy to carry jewelry in your handbag or carry-on; or to change things up for an event after work. Because they have a tie closure, they’ll be nice and secure.
“I received my beautiful jewelry very quickly! The packaging was very well done. Almost didn't want to open the earring box because it looked so nice. The lavender sachet is the perfect little addition.”-Mckenzie H.
See other customer testimonials
McKenzie received her package before I ordered the pouches and still loved her unboxing experience.
So, back to your recipient. I hope you feel a little more comfortable about sending unseen packages to your loved ones and friends from Divella Designs.
If you have any questions or concerns, please reach out to me at dianne@divelladesigns.com
]]>“Color is a power which directly influences the soul.” ~Wassily Kandinsky
When I first began making jewelry I was beading so my days were full of color. When I switched to metals things were a little more monochromatic with the exception of the stones, like these fine silver and amethyst earrings.
There is a psychological component to how we feel color. Red attracts the most attention and is associated with strong emotions whereas blue suggests calm, serenity and peace. Shades of red can denote autumn, summer is often associated with summer. With color making such a big impact on our psyche, it’s no wonder my enamels have become a bestseller.
In addition to being inspired by color, I look to nature. The Lichen series is my most popular and was provoked by the lichen growing on the stones and bark in the woods surrounding my home. I knew there had to be a way to replicate that marvelous texture in jewelry.
Let’s begin by explaining what form of enamel we’re talking about. I use only unleaded vitreous enamel powder produced by Thompson in Bellevue, Kentucky. They’ve been making vitreous enamel for 119 years so I guess they know what they’re doing!
In my enamel work I begin with CDA #110 copper; 99.9% pure in sheet form. I clean & shape the metal and drill the holes for the ear wires to prepare it for enameling. Enamel powder is applied to the back and fired in the kiln at 1450°, then a second coat is applied and fired. The front is then cleaned to accept the 2-4 coats of enamel to come depending on the technique I’m using. Each layer is fired individually and cooled before the next coat can be applied.
Nearly always the enamel as it is fired will spill over onto the edge. After all coats are fired (and sometimes between) the edges are ground down, sanded and polished. All that’s left to do at that point is add the ear wires.
Check out some more colorful enamel earrings in a variety of shapes and sizes and find your favorite color.
]]>When I first started Divella Designs I had no idea it would take me to this place. I was working full time in a hospital by day and in the evenings & on weekends beadweaving, creating patterns, and teaching a variety of beading techniques. That was in 2007. Now I find myself in 2021 living in a with a house tucked into the woods of Vermont in the middle of a full metalsmithing studio and making jewelry full time. It’s just my husband David, our 2 pups and me here. The kids and grandkids are grown and gone and we’re even awaiting the birth of our first great grandson! Funny, I don’t feel old enough for that!
Back in 2011 shortly after moving from Maine to Vermont, I bought my first small torch, a hammer, some copper sheet and a few other miscellaneous jewelry tools to learn fold-forming.
Through the process of heating, bending, twisting, and hammering; that flat piece of copper sheet turned into a wearable piece of art.
With the help of books, people on YouTube like Nancy LT Hamilton, Andrew Berry and a few online mentors I gradually learned (and am still learning) the details of working with metals.
I was afraid of the price tag of silver so I used to practice with copper before attempting something in silver. I’ve learned that not only is silver easier to work with, but I can melt down my mistakes with silver (much easier than copper) and make some really interesting pieces.
ADHD is something I’ve had to manage my entire life. I say managed because I don’t suffer with it, I’ve learned how to deal with it…mostly. That’s thanks to my pediatrician when I was young. He didn’t believe it required medication and said I would outgrow it. I’ll always be thankful for Dr. West and the decision he made, but I never did outgrow it.
I was plugging along at my workbench and thought there must be a way to add more color. I asked Mr. Google about it and he suggested enamels. Well, don’t ya know that good ole ADHD kicked into high gear and I bought everything I needed to get started! I began torch firing and finally bought a kiln, mostly because of my lack of patience. With a kiln I do more in a shorter time span and get some really cool effects much easier.
So there you have it, my evolution thus far. Oh, except I’ve begun adding gold to my work, 24k gold (freaking emoji) Check out my Keum-Boo work…more on that later.
I hope you’ve enjoyed my trip down memory lane and the evolution of Divella Designs up to this point.
]]>Fashion Jewelry: When I first started making jewelry, I picked up some beads & findings from a national craft store and made some simple earrings to wear to work. They were cute and fun, but I found the metals lost their luster in a short time. It seemed a shame to spend the time making them to have them become dull & hazy and in my mind, unwearable. Shelling out a few bucks at the local big-box is fine if I only wanted to wear them a couple of times, but I wanted mine to last. Fashion jewelry has its place, but it isn't what I was interested in.
Fine jewelry is made with precious metal and stones. Diamonds, emeralds, sapphires & rubies are the only stones classified as precious; and the precious metals used are gold, fine silver or platinum. It has a hefty price tag but properly cared for should last for all time.
Bridge Jewelry: Bridge jewelry bridges the gap between fashion jewelry and premier fine jewelry. It is made with materials such as copper, sterling and gold filled (not to be confused with gold plated) metals and generally speaking, semi-precious stones. Bridge jewelry is much less expensive than fine jewelry and if properly made and cared for, you’ll be passing them down to the next generation.
At Divella Designs the jewelry is classified as bridge jewelry. The metals i use are pure copper, jeweler's brass sheet, sterling silver, fine silver, and 14k gold filled; the stones are semi-precious. Now, gold filled is not the same as gold plated. Both the amount of gold used and how it is made are very different.
In gold plating a minuscule amount of gold is plated onto the surface using an electrical current forming a very thin layer of gold on the top. This means that any friction, even cleaning can make the gold begin to peal and flake off. Gold filled has 100 times the amount of gold and to make gold-filled pieces, the core metal is sandwiched between two layers of gold alloy which is then heated and passed through a roller several times. This process both bonds the metals together and thins the sheet out. If you tried to form gold plated metals the gold cracks and flakes off. Conversely, gold filled, can be formed and even soldered while maintaining the original shine and sheen.
I do use 24k gold in my Keum-Boo pieces, but that’s an entirely different subject to be discussed later.
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When the furbaby of my granddaughter passed away, she was devastated. After she adopted Remy, she would leave school on lunch and go home to let him out. He went everywhere with her after school hours. He as indeed her best friend.
She called me from the vet's office sobbing so hard I could barely understand her. She asked if I could make her a pendant with his ashes. Naturally, the answer was "yes". When I hung up the phone, myself in tears, I realized I had no idea how to go about fulfilling her request, but I knew I had to. Of that there was no question.
I did much research, some trial and error I figured out a way to make it happen.
Her pendant is about 3/4 of on inch in diameter made with sterling silver, and the ashes are securely and safely inside. She has a dog paw one one side and wildflowers on the other.
Wow! There's a lot going on in February, with a lot of info to glean. We have
Since you might not have heard of RED Friday, let's start there. RED stands for Remember Everyone Deployed. Those of us who have experienced a deployment or the deployment of our family members wear red on Fridays. I't a quiet statement, but I've met other military parents just by wearing red on Friday! Who knew?
Black History Month
Having a national Black History Month has spurred me to get more information on the lives of our black community from a historical perspective. I'd like to recommend a few good books to begin with.
The more I read and discover, the more I understand why white people in this country just want to quiet the conversation.
National Heart Month
Lyndon B Johnson, in 1964 declared February National Heart Month in order to tackle heart disease in earnest. It's a great time to focus on improving your heart health. You can find a ton of info at heart.org. From ways to give or get involved to menus including heart healthy ingredients and losing weight to fitness.
National Cancer Prevention Month
February has also been deemed National Cancer Prevention Month. Take this as a reminder to schedule your cancer screenings. I had a friend, a single mother of two teenage boys die last year from colon cancer that spread to her liver before she was diagnosed. She didn't heed the early warning signs because she was "too young for cancer" and was thinking it was just a dietary disorder of some sort, and one that would pass. By the time she she got checked out, the cancer was at stage 4. She had several surgeries and many rounds of chemo before the disease finally took her.
February 5th: National Heart Health Day and RED Friday
February 7th Super Bowl
February 12th Chinese New Year...the year of the Ox
February 14th Valentine's Day
February 16th Mardi Gras...Laissez les bons temps rouler! Let the good times roll!
I hope you'll do some reading or get into some audiobooks this month, Focus on your heart health and get your cancer screenings!
Be well!
~Dianne
]]>You've probably heard people recommend the wipe and rinse silver cleaners (tarnish removers) for your silver jewelry. Don't do it! Using silver cleaners & tarnish removers from the grocery store will very often pit your silver making it dull.
There are 2 options I recommend for cleaning the tarnish from your silver jewelry. One is taking it to a reputable jewelry store. Most of them will clean a piece or two free of charge. The other method is using the Sunshine® polishing cloth I provide in orders containing silver and copper items or chains. These cloths are pre-treated with a high-quality, micro-abrasive polishing compound that is safe for polishing silver, gold, copper and other metals. Never wash your polishing cloth.
One thing to keep in mind...if you have jewelry that's oxidized, the cloth will remove the oxidation. On my textured pieces, I recommend you rub the cloth only over the raised design to keep the deeper recesses oxidized. an easy way to do this is by wrapping the cloth around something flat, like an emery board.
For the enamel jewelry, all you need is a damp cloth. Vitreous enamel is actually glass powder that is fused to the copper or silver using very high heat, between 1450° and 1500°. You can use a mild soap if you like, make sure you rinse well and dry with a cloth or paper towel. The same is true of Niobium ear wires.
]]>I don’t normally take in repairs made by other artists, mainly because there is no way sometimes to know what had been done, but his necklace was pretty straightforward.
When I took the rest of the necklace apart, I saw why it had broken. A few of the sapphires were forced onto the necklace wire and had cut into it, thereby weakening the piece. Rather than fore them onto the new silver 49 stand wires, I decided to put gold beads on either side of the center gemstone. The original piece had just the crimp, with no cover and additionally they were fold over crimps. I put new gold tube crimps and gold crimp covers on, as well as gold wire guards and a new gold lobster claw clasp.
I sent her this picture and she was thrilled!
]]>Here are a couple of pics with Ellis playing the drums...
It's when I saw the following picture that the light came on.
I'd been thinking about what to make for her as an expression of my gratitude for all the joy she spreads. When I saw her on the guitar, I knew exactly what I as going to make. A guitar pick shaped necklace. I made an adjustable leather cord for it so she can just slip it over her head and adjust it as she sees fit. A heavy duty sterling jump ring attaches the pieces.
I dropped it off at Boston Dreams, the local coffee shop we both frequent. I received the SWEETEST video from Ellis soon after, and today received this pic from mom. Adorable!
Thank you Ellis & Ashley for all the smiles, giggles and joy you bring all of us!
]]>Tarnish on silver, or copper for the mater, is s simple chemical reaction between air and the metal. Sometimes I use a solution to intentionally speed up this reaction to get effects like in this pair of earrings where the recesses maintain the tarnish, but the high points have a high polish.
There’s no way to avoid your jewelry developing tarnish over time, but there are some ways to slow the development and safe and effective ways to remove it.
Using harsh chemicals to clean tarnish off your jewelry can cause damage to the integrity of the metal. I often see makers recommend things like Tarn-X to their clients for their silver jewelry. That’s a big NO-NO! Tarn-X and similar “silver cleaners”, will pit your silver.
First, let’s talk about some steps you can take to slow the development of tarnish.
So, you’ve skipped all those steps above and now you have tarnish…now what? The solution is quite simple really. Use the polishing cloth that came with your order to clean it off. It has a very mild abrasive imbedded in it that will clean your jewelry without pitting or scratching it. If you have a piece that is intentionally oxidized, rub across the top of the piece lightly so as not to remove the patina in the recesses.
While we’re at it, check out this article on removing silver tarnish with baking soda and aluminum foil. I haven't tried it on jewelry yet, but I have a piece I’m allowing to tarnish so I can give it a try. It will work on your silver or silver-plate tableware.
]]>I had some copper flower blanks hanging around so thought I'd try something new. Now, there did NOT turn out the way I had hoped...so here's to happy accidents!
I wanted to enamel them separately and then rivet them together when they were finished. The problem was that the center holes kept filling up with enamel. The first few firings I drilled them out with a diamond drill bit under water. I finally decided to stop fighting the piece and just lay the smaller flower on top of the larger flower and fire them thereby fusing the 2 piece together. I wasn't sure I really liked them until I stepped away overnight and looked at them with fresh eyes in the morning.
I only had 3 pair of the flowers and now it turns out I can't find them anymore. I'm still searching. Meanwhile, one pair has sold so I only have 2 left.
These have 14K gold filled ear wires to a length of 3 inches and the flowers are a ful in in diameter so they aren't for the timid!
Enjoy!
]]>I've been wanting this tool for quite some time, but like the rest of my metalwork and enamel tools, they don't come cheap if you want tools that will last...and Pepe Tools last! My first Pepe tool was my rolling mill.
I was so impressed with it that when I needed a new disc cutter I naturally went to Pepe and again was very happy. I had purchased 2 previous disc cutters from other manufacturers and they both jammed up. My Pepe Disc Cutter cuts clean every time and never gets jammed or stuck.
Back to the jump rings...There are times when my pendants, especially the larger enamaI designs need something more than a small chain. I want to be able to make some larger, more unique chains so I spent the day coiling, cutting, tumbling, and sorting them so they are ready to go when I need them. I made them in copper, NuGold and sterling in a variety of sizes and gauges. Now I can make some really nice chains for the 1.25" enamel pendants and they're coming soon!
I am a fan of Pepe Tools, but am in no way compensated for bragging about their superior quality! In fact, I'm pretty sure they don't even know! :)
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